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The city of Dogubayazit is situated on a dusty plain,
1950 meters above sea level. It's boring and dominated by two army camps. 12 big,
modern tanks are exhibited for the sake of horror. The passing traffic is slowed
down by oil drums filled with soil, but without fresh flowers. But the soldiers
smile and wave at passing tourists heading for the Ishakpasha Sarayi. The palace
is situated on a mountain terrace about 5 kilometers to the east. The city, used
to be on the foot of the palace, was moved in modern times. Now the ruins are
occupied by poor kurds from the mountains. With a wiew to the golden palace and
threatening clouds you can enjoy a beer or two in the Parachute Café.
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The construction was probably undertaken by Hasan Paşa,
who had been the Ottoman commander-in-chief of Georgia in the late 18th century.
It was completed by his son Ishak Paşa II, perhaps at the beginning of the
19th century. By the middle of that century it was abandoned. The palace was
actually a complex of many different buildings and perhaps 360 rooms and halls.
It was
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self-contained, like a small village: There
were an audience chamber, barracks, medrese, arsenal, food depots, bakery, baths,
harem apartments and other living quarters, a mosque. Even a prison.
Architecturally, purists charitably describe it as eclectic, meaning it contains
a hodgepodge of elements mostly from Anatolia and the Caucasus.
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